NTN BINDING BUYING GUIDE

IMG_8354

NTN TELEMARK BINDINGS A PRACTICAL, REAL-WORLD GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

Telemark skiing is a turning technique, but it’s not just one thing.

It spans resort carving, powder skiing, ski touring, big-mountain skiing, and even 3-pin bindings with leather boots. Equipment choices reflect those realities, and no single binding fits every skier.

And I’m still a very big fan of 75 mm bindings.

This article is about NTN (New Telemark Norm) and is based entirely on my own experience. I ski steep terrain, I charge hard, ski moguls and trees, I patrol, I guide, I tour, and I carve. I care deeply about how bindings feel underfoot, how they behave after long days, and how they perform when things are less than ideal.

NTN was introduced as a new standard to solve problems that 75 mm bindings struggled with, such as step-in, ski brakes, and power transmission.

This is not meant to be universal truth. Your terrain, your style, your boots, and your expectations may lead you to different conclusions.

My goal is simply to explain which bindings excel in which roles, based on long-term use.

My goal is simply to explain which bindings excel in which roles, based on long-term use. It’s not perfect but I hope it helps you decide on your next purchase.

 

DISCLOSURE

I receive most of the products mentioned here directly from manufacturers, except Rottefella. There is no sponsorship agreement, no editorial control, and no preview approval. These opinions are based on real use over many seasons. My only goal is to provide accurate information based on long-term experience on snow, in a wide range of conditions.

Categories

THE BIG PICTURE: TWO BINDING CATEGORIES

Modern NTN bindings fall into two broad categories:

  • TTS / pin bindings, designed primarily for touring efficiency
  • Full-frame bindings, designed primarily for resort and inbounds performance

Each binding makes compromises. Understanding those compromises is far more useful than chasing a mythical “perfect” binding. Altough I think these categories matter, I will simply go with my preferences regardless of the category.

 

MEIDJO – INWILD – TTS

BEST ALL-AROUND NTN BINDING

IMG_8354

Let’s start by the king of telemark binding.

If I could only own one telemark binding, this would be it.

I’ve never done a review about the Meidjo 3.0 but here is my take on the 2.1 version.

The Meidjo by InWild is a Telemark Tech System (TTS), meaning it uses tech pins at the toe. You need an NTN boot with Dynafit-style inserts.

I have skied the Meidjo for over 10 years. It is the binding I’ve skied the most in my 30 years of telemark skiing. I’ve skied all version of the Meidjo and I’ve skied it uin all conditions.

If I only had one binding, that would be it. Pierre Moyade, product designer of the Meidjo really put it all in one binding. It’s been on mountain guide skis, it’s been on ski patrol skis, it’s been on World Cup racers skis.

Why it wins overall

The Meidjo is the only binding that truly combines:
• Excellent touring efficiency
• Highly adjustable downhill feel
• A reliable release system
• Optional alpine heel locking
• Competitive weight

No other binding covers this range as well.

The Way I Use it

Current setups:
• Black Diamond Impulse 98 – inbounds and short tours (15 days per season) with alpine heelset to lock the heel
• Black Diamond Helio 115 – backcountry touring and guiding (35 days per season) with alpine heelset to lock the heel

IMG_8352

I have my Meidjo on the BD Impulse 98 to travel (second setup like that) And it’s been my go-to setup for four Whistler trips in the last 3 years. I will only bring that ski only and teach a week long telemark seminar. Then try to follow my oldest kid, now 21, down steep chute like Lone Pine Tree (skied it with heel locked), DOA on Blackcomb, or Banana Chute on Fissile. Then do the three day Spearhead traverse. This is a long walk where efficiency is king. I don’t bring spare parts, I don’t pay much attention to the binding other than normal care. This binding just works. Having the heelset also adds to the overall versatility, as I could aim for very hard ski lines and be confident about me skiing it whatever the conditions. If I could only have one setup for the rest of my life, this would be it.

On this setup, I have the Meidjo feeling set with the dual spring combo and tension at 3 or 4.

Also I use it on my BD Helio 115 to guide.  (I think I’m at 6 or 7 similar setups like that). This is a lighter and more powder oriented setup and it is the perfect touring telemark kit for me. I guide in a place where tree skiing, tight open chutes and a few open fields are dispersed in a wide landscape. My days are on average 13 to 15 km and 1200 to 1600m of vertical. I have to break trail about 75% of the time. Here again, this has been a very reliable setup for me. I LOVE the way this ski floats easily both on the way up and down. With the binding ease of touring, very low weight, this is the perfect combo. Also, I use the Alpine heelset more and more while guiding. At now 47, guiding is a very physical job. I usually guide for 7 to days days straight always breaking trail with a heavy pack. Locking my heel from time to time allows me to be wise about my energy and be safe.

On this setup, I have the Meidjo feeling set with the dual spring combo and tension at 2 or 3.

Pros

Feeling
Overall, the Meidjo has incredible feeling, with very direct lateral response, no deadzone in the early moments of the heel lifting. TTS bindings alike have a very direct lateral feeling. It’s a lot more precise than a 75mm binding and somewhat more precise and quick to engage laterally than a full frame NTN binding. So Meidjo’s lateral stiffness is very good.

The Meidjo’s feel is highly adjustable. It has screws to tighten springs like most telemark bindings. Those screws can be adjusted by hand but it becomes harder and harder to a point that you will need help with a rag  at one point.

On top of that, Meidjo has a combo of springs to choose from. You can choose a red or red main spring to have more or less resistance. On top of that (sic), you can add a smaller inox spring that fits inside the main spring. For all my set up, I use the Black main spring combined with the inox spring. On the soft end, it can feel very neutral, almost 75mm like. On the stiff end, I think it matches the absolute maximum stiffness of full-frame bindings like the BMF, Outlaw X or Freeride. Honestly, I’ve never tried the red main spring with the inox spring at max tension. Screwing the spring to max tension would sure not be easy on this binding.
With the stiff red springs, you can easily reach a point where the rear ski tip dives aggressively in soft or chopped snow. For me, that’s the logical upper limit anyway.

Like you read above, I will have my bindings at different tension depending on the use, the terrain, the snow. I rarely adjust it during the day, But I will definitely adjust it from time to time or from ski to ski.

Step-in
For a pin binding, the step-in is excellent.It’s a lot better than the Lynx in my experience. It works as well as, or better than, most bindings on the market, with the Bishop BMF being the absolute best overall. Step in is a two motion action. you first have to align the boot pin hole with the binding claws, This is well implemented but the gap is a bit wider than the Lynx. Once, in, you can simply slam the heel down and you are in. On previous generations, Meidjo would have you lift the whole spring box to arm the system. This is still available but mandatory.

Touring
Touring on pins is simply better. Period. TTS binding is simply a must for touring and the Meidjo makes it easy to transition from telemark to tour. The climbing aids are not my favorite to use with a pole but they stay in position.

Compared to older cable bindings like the Black Diamond O1, I estimate I save around 30 percent energy. That translates directly into more runs, less fatigue, and better decisions.

binding avec flèche.003Releasability
The Meidjo has the most reliable release system ever developed for a telemark binding. Many moving parts work together to create an excellent releasable system.

It is not DIN-certified, but no telemark or tech binding is. The Meidjo uses its own adjustable release scale, and in my experience it is consistent and predictable.

Recent versions include a sliding heel support that allows the boot to move more naturally during a release.

Weight
It is light. That matters enormously for touring and doesn’t hurt at the resort either.

If you want to recreate the lively, nimble feel of mid-2000s telemark setups, this binding gets you there.

IMG_8361Alpine heelset
This optional add-on allows you to lock the heel and alpine ski.

 

You can telemark and alpine ski on the same ski, with the same boot. For this, your boot must have heel tech inserts. This is one of the main reasons I ski the Crispi Evo WC.

What’s interesting here is elasticity. Lightweight alpine tech bindings often feel harsh because they lack elasticity. The Meidjo system feels noticeably more forgiving and controlled than many bindings of similar weight when skiing aggressively.

Durability
Despite its complexity, the Meidjo 3.0 is very durable. I have never broken a 3.0.

Earlier versions could be broken by bad step-ins. That learning curve still exists, but the risk is greatly reduced. Proper engagement at the toe and second heel is critical.

Cons

Icing
Icing mainly occurs in the second heel cup and sometimes under the main plate, depending on snow conditions.

Clearing the heel cup with a pole is now part of my normal transition routine. An anti-icing sticker helps under the plate, though it wears over time.

See my video on how to de-ice your binding here

 

Brakes
The brakes are too weak for my skiing style. I break the springs consistently and no longer use them.

Many skiers have no issue at all, so this is individual. Still, this is the one area I would like to see improved.

Mounting complexity
There are many screws. You need a competent ski tech. Swapping bindings between skis is not convenient.

Learning curve
This binding demands some learning and attention. Step-in, especially with a brake is a challenge at first. It can beome easy with practice. Ice buildup can be managed, It’s just the habit of cleaning snow and not forcing a bad step-in. Once the habit is built, it becomes automatic.

Best for
• Skiers who tour, even occasionally
• Skiers who want one binding to do everything
• Any telemark skiers who value versatility, feeling adjustability

Final Thoughts

I have used the Meidjo 3.0 and all prior versions.  This is by far the most innovative binding ever made. It might have too many features as far as marketing goes. It’s hard for people to understand how good it really is compare to the competition.

The fact that Inwild aknowledges the evolution through versions is very honest. V1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 2.0, 2.1 and now V3. It shows commitment from a small company to improve and to let people know the evolutions, what was solved.
Now V3.0 is very stable, reliable and trustworthy.

Why do I have other bindings than the Meidjo if it’s that good? Simply because of the low tech step-in and the fact that as a ski patroller, I have to remove my skis so often. Most people are not ski patrollers and don’t have to step in a tech binding on a steep icy pitch while someone injured is in the toboggan.

 

 

BISHOP BMF

BEST RESORT / INBOUNDS NTN BINDING

IMG_8343

If the Meidjo is the best all-around binding, the Bishop BMF by far the best pure resort binding on the market.

My Bishop BMF full review here

The BMF is a full-frame NTN binding designed around downhill performance, easy step-in, and durability. I currently ski it on my patrol skis (Bishop Gonzo 90 mm) and on my Rossignol carving FIS skis. If resort skiing is your thing, you should not hesitate and go straight for the BMF. They are the most reliable, the easiest to step in, have the best brake system, and above all, the have the most progressive telemark feeling of any binding I’ve ever tried. I’ve said in the past that if this binding had been invented in the mid 2000’s, NTN would maybe not have come to life at all. Oh and It is one-size fits all, quite unique for a tele binding.

Main competition:

Outlaw X by 22Designs

Why it dominates inbounds

  • Progressive, powerful,
  • Most 75 mm-like feel
  • Best step-in of any telemark binding, EVER
  • Best brake design, EVER
  • Extremely durable construction

Pros

Feeling
This is where the BMF really shines.

The NTN BMF has a progressive flex curve. It starts soft early in the flex, then ramps up strongly deeper in the turn. Power arrives exactly when you need it.

It feels more “75 mm-like” than any other NTN binding I’ve skied. Not identical, but closer than anything else especially if you ski it with less tension. If you crank up the spring tensions, you will get a more NTN like feeling, very similar to the Outlaw X

Step-in et Brakes
Best in the industry. Alpine-like, easy, and reliable in all conditions.

This is a simple sentence, but it’s not easy to accomplish.

I’ve put step-in and brakes in the same category so you understand how different this binding is compared to the competition. Creating a true step in binding for telemark is hard. Creating a true step in binding with ski brakes that creates a true one motion to easily step-in in a steep icy slope, there is no other. Second place here would go to the original Rottefella Freeride but you still have to push down the front tab with your hand or other foot. The BMF only needs a little flip of the plastic lever and it’s very easy to do it with your pole.

As a ski patroller, this is the best binding to use on a ski resort.
Strong brakes that don’t break, without impairing boot entry. No other binding does this better.

Adjustability
Very easy to adjust. I’d say the easiest. Simply use a Phillips screwdriver and you don’t even need force. That’s very different from 22Designs Outlaw.

Huge range, from neutral to extremely powerful. Comparable to Outlaw X at the top end, maybe even more, but can be very very soft too.

Build quality
Almost entirely metal. Bombproof. Multiple seasons with zero issues. In my review I had problems with the plastic lever that holds the heel in place. This was a pre-production model. With the production version, I have never had any problem with that part or any part. This is by far the most durable binding I have ever owned.

Switch plates
The HD 3.0 Switch Plate allows one binding to be used on multiple skis. Simple and effective. Bolts should be checked occasionally.

You can see that I have 4 skis mounted with plates but only 2 bindings. This allows me to be more cost effective.

No icing
This is unique. NONE EVER. No snow buildup, even when skiing fakie in powder which no other binding can claim

Cons

Touring
Even the touring version (BMFr) cannot compete with pin bindings. No full-frame binding can.

Price
Expensive if you only own one ski. Makes much more sense with multiple skis.

No release
It does not release in a controlled way. This is common in telemark and rarely a deal-breaker.

Best for

  • Resort skiers
  • Ski patrollers
  • Instructors and coaches
  • Carving-focused telemark skiers
  • Jibbers, fakie fans

22 DESIGNS
BEST VALUE / MOST TRUSTED BRAND

22 Designs is one of the most respected companies in telemark skiing. Their bindings are widely used, widely trusted, and widely available.

They don’t necessarily make the “best” binding in any single category, but they make very good bindings across the board.

Outlaw X

A powerful full-frame NTN binding and the BMF’s closest competitor.

PROS
• Strong downhill performance
• Reliable long-term durability
• Wide adjustability
• Excellent company support

CONS
• Brake tension can impair step-in
• Step-in less predictable than BMF
• More on/off feel, less progressive

Bandit

A newer non-touring binding designed to improve step-in ease. I have not skied it yet, but it looks a lot like the Outlaw X in a cheaper non-touring version.

Lynx

A lightweight TTS binding focused on touring.

PROS

  • Excellent touring efficiency
  •  Strong lateral power transfer
  • Simple, purpose-built design

CONS

  • No release system
  • Minimal tension adjustment
  • Icing is hard to clean and the second heel anchor might not want to stay in ski mode.
  • No brakes
  • No alpine heel option

Best for

  • Skiers who want proven products
  • Skiers prioritizing reliability and availability
  • Lynx specifically: touring-focused skiers
  • Can be a good balance between moneuy and performance

Final thoughts:

22Designs have a very strong reputation and is probably the worlds number 1 telemark binding company now. My only gripe with their products are related to the predictability of the step in in all their models. Every one I know find its a pain, but every one gets by with pratice and some bending down.

OTHER NTN OPTIONS

ROTTEFELLA

Freeride

A powerful, rigid binding with an on/off feel. Durable and still relevant for carving skis, but harsh and outdated in design. No true release despite earlier claims. Good interchangeable plate system, simple and cheap. The Freeride is a hit or miss binding. Either you like it or not. The feeling is SO different. Its got almost no progression. It’s a bit floating at the beginning of the flex, with no tension, then it jumps to super stiff and blocks the boot flex at once. Like I said, weird at first. But it creates a super good alpine like feeling where you can really drive the ski.

I’m not a big fan of their brakes but it works a lot better than 22Designs and Meidjo.

To sum it up, Freeride is the furthest away feeling from a 75mm binding.

IMG_8364

Freedom

In my experience, the worst NTN binding. Poor touring, inconsistent step-in, durability issues, and icing. Some skiers have had good experiences, but I have not. This is only binding I trully don’t recommand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

VOILÉ TTS

A minimalist TTS design that I have not personally skied. I’ve tried to reach out but never got an answer. No blame here, just saying I’m very interested in their products but haven’t had the chance to try.

Potential strengths
• Elegant, simple construction
• Likely excellent touring efficiency
• Adjustable cable vectors

Open questions
• Long-term durability
• Power on wide skis
• Cable management during touring
• Lack of brakes

FUTURE BINDINGS TO WATCH (2026)

Telemark is small, but right now it feels like we’re entering a new mini-wave of innovation. Two developments are worth watching closely.

INWILD SIMPLL

InWild has presented a brand-new telemark binding called SIMPLL. This is not an evolution of the Meidjo, but a completely different concept. I have just received a pair and will come back with a review.

SIMPLL is designed around simplicity, low weight, and a very natural free-heel movement. It targets touring-focused telemark skiing with fewer parts, fewer adjustments, and fewer transitions.

If everything goes as planned, I should be able to ski and review the SIMPLL during the 2025–2026 season. I’m genuinely curious to see how it performs on snow and where it fits relative to the Meidjo.

ATK TELEMARK (RUMORED)

ATK has publicly hinted at entering the telemark binding market. As of now, there is no officially released product, but multiple sources suggest a lightweight NTN-tech binding could appear in 2026.

If ATK brings its alpine touring design philosophy into telemark, this could push the category forward, especially for touring-focused skiers.

For now, this remains a “watch this space” situation.

FINAL RECOMMENDATIONS

If you want one binding that does everything, including touring:
Meidjo

If you ski exclusively inbounds and want the best step-in and feel:
Bishop BMF3

If you want proven reliability and good value:
22 Designs (Outlaw X or Bandit)

If you tour a lot and want simplicity:
Lynx

If you own both resort and backcountry skis:
One Meidjo and one BMF is an ideal quiver.

These are my honest, field-tested opinions as of 2025-26 season. Your experience may differ — terrain, style, and priorities matter.

If this kind of deep, no-nonsense content helps you, consider supporting my work:
https://www.patreon.com/absolutetelemark

IMG_8342

 

My Telemark Ski Quiver starting 2024-25 Season

RMT08814-Enhanced-NR

First of all, nowadays, most people have more than one pair of skis. Even kids usually have more than one pair of skis.

This has transfered to telemark too. And it allows skis to perform very well in specific conditions, and not so well in others.

So we have seen telemark skiers having 2-3 pairs of skis to choose from depending the conditions.

It’s been a few seasons since I have not changed my ski quiver. Here is my list at the start of the 2024-2025 of skis and why I have them. It will definitely change during the season as I try different ski setup.

For me, I choose ski not only depending conditons but mainly by activities. My season is divided into four categories:

  • Ski Patrol – If I only had one ski, it would be in this category. I do less and less every year now. I used to work full time and ski around 100 days patrolling. Now, I usually work as a ski patroller around 10-15 times, mainly in December and January. I will almost always use my Bishop Gonzo with the BMF3 binding. I love the carving ability of this ski AND it’s very good in moguls and tree skiing. 90mm is perfect for the Eastern Canada conditions. BMF3 is by far the best resort binding, in my opinion. Easy step in, very adjustable feeling and tension, durable. This year, I will try the new Gonzo 2025 version and I want to try the new L5S1 87 ski from Switzerland. I think this will make for an interesting ski test for you guys.
  • Travelling and telemark week seminar – I don’t publicize this but every year I travel to give telemark seminars to the Telemark Tribe and I travel to ski with my family. Anyhow, I end up in the likes of Whistler or Revelstoke Canada to telemark. I like a one quiver ski for those adventures, and I choose the Black Diamond Impulse 98 with the Meidjo binding. I really like this 98mm ski that is heavy, damp and super predictable. It allows me to ski all the conditions, go fast and have fun. It is wide enough to float somewhat in powder, it is still okay for groomers and such. It’s only in moguls that I find it’s a bit big and heavy to be nimble. A true Western Canada one ski quiver for telemark. The Meidjo is the best telemark binding on the market period. Touring capacities of the tech toes, light, very adjustable feeling (Second only to the Bishop BMF). But like all tech binding, the stepin is not the best for ski patrolling because we need to remove ski every 2 minutes. In a steep icy slope, tech binding are just a pain to step in or out. So Meidjo serves me well for anything but ski patrolling.
  • Telemark instructor – I’m more and more into telemark instructor activies with CANSI. This year, I’ll be taking my CANSI Telemark Level 4. You can follow my process on this blog as I untend to share my journey along the way. I will also give my first CANSI level 1 as a rooky. For this, I have skied a soft Salomon slalom (SL) skis for the last 8 years with the Rottefella Freeride. It’s a great combo but now the skis are dead and the binding as well. I will try two slalom skis this season: the same (soft) Salomon slalom ski but newer, and a Rossignol stiffer (stiff as hell) FIS version. To have both skis in my quiver, I have a friend making some aluminum base plate that will allow me to mount the Bishop BMF3. I wanted to go with the BMF instead of the Freeride because of the feeling the BMF gives. It’s more progressive compare to the on-off feeling of the Freeride. Bishop makes a mounting plate called the switch plate HD 3.0. This works great for all skis except slalom skis which need to have a higher plate under the binding to avoid boot drag when edging. Thus my friend machining some higher plates for me. I could ski the Meidjo but the 10 screws needed to mount the skis would be too much of a pain to switch the binding from one ski to another. For 100% on-piste, the BMF is the perfect binding in many regards. This is going to be a fun category for me to test. Can’t wait to see if I’ll be able to ski a real FIS (super stiff) ski or not. This category of skis is the first one I would remove from my quiver if I had too. The Slalom skis are so specialized to groomed runs only. It’s a fun and easy ski, but so limited.
  • Guiding – I’ve now been guiding for 8 years. It’s taken more and more time in my schedule and I now guide full time from February to March for a company called Vertigo Aventures in the Chic-Chocs Canada. This place is surreal and the conditions are almost always very very good. I think the snow looks like what we find in the western Canadian Rookies (Kicking Horse). Cold dense snow that gives support on the steeps but also allows for face shots. Anyway, I have been skiing the same iteration since 2016, the Black Diamond Helio 115. This big pow super light carbon ski is my favorite ski in the line up. I’ve tried many other option, but I always come back to this one. It skis SO good even if the conditions are not 100% perfect. I mount this with the Meidjo and the alpine heelset. This combo allows me to tour super well, to telemark whenever I want and to lock the heel to alpine when the conditions are harder. Guiding is a different beast and having the option to alpine is such a relief. Before this I would ski tour for me, with friends. But guiding 7 to 10 days in a row, with a heavier pack is hard on the body. The Alpine Heelset from Meidjo is a safety. And I love the peace of mind it gives me. The combo with the Helio 115 is just the best backcountry ski I’ve ever had. I’d like to note that I’ve tried a few 105ish skis in this category and I have always found them to be not big enough for powder. I’m a big guy and I feel that I need at least a 108mm to enjoy the backcountry.

​So these are my 4 categories. As you can see, my quiver is quite unique and applies mainly to me in this crazy schedule I have. Yes, it’s a lot of skis, but I ski a lot. Just to put this in perspective, I usually ski every day of the season but travel days.

If I could only have 2 skis, I would take the Gonzo+BMF3 and the Helio 115+Meidjo.

If I could only have one, I would take the Black Diamond Impulse 98+ Meidjo.

In the end, I feel that equipment is more complicated and specialized than before. Yes a ski like the Impulse 98 allows me to ski faster in open terrain, Yes the Helio 115 are so fun in powder, Yes the slalom skis are so fun (and easy) to carve.

I think that the one ski quiver research is not over. I think, for me in Quebec, Eastern Canada, It’s somewhere between the Gonzo and the Impiulse 98.

I’m still looking for the perfect all mountain ski and I will produce a few videos on this subject. I think this should be fun.

Also, I will continue to revisit older setups, just for fun. Stay tuned for that as well

I hope you like this kind of content. If you have any questions, please ask. Best way is the subscribe to my newsletter.

Next I think I will more indepth on bindings.

Cheers

Rene-Martin
If I’ve helped you in any way, consider helping me by becoming a patreon here​
​https://www.patreon.com/absolutetelemark​

Ep 3: Road to level 4 telemark instructor, Podcast 2.2

Hello Telemark Tribe,

I just published the second episode of the Podcast where I share my journey to become a level 4 CANSI telemark instructor.
CANSI or the Canadian Association of Nordic Skiing Instructor is the governing body that certifies telemark instructors in Canada.

This is a new level for telemark instructors, and I will be among the first to try it.
You can also subscribe to our podcast on all major podcast distributors like Apple or Spotify.

Ep 3 – Road to level 4 Cansi. Talking Inspirations

Here is my jouney to the level 4 telemark intructor course

I’ve been watching a lot of different videos over the last month to prepare for my level 4 course like mentioned in Ep1 of this series

So along my journey I want to share the steps I’m taking for this PhD in Telemark skiing.

In this blog post, let me share my approach to get inspired and learn from other telemark skiers. CANSI as just release very good videos that show the Canadian standards for telemark. Most and foremost, this is what I’ve been watching. I can’t share those videos here because they are not public.

But I thought I could show you other videos that have inspired me lately.

What I am looking for?

I’ve now telemark skied for almost 30 years. And I can easily say that I have a good understanding of what works, what I’m doing to make it work.

But I still need to find ways to improve. And to get those 5-10% marginal gains, I feel that I need to challenge my understanding of the freeheel turn.

For example, I once thought that, when mastering telemark, I would ski without any unbalances all the time. Ski perfect. Then, my mentor, Denis Vezina made me realize it was not the case. At all levels, unbalances are happening. But good technique can reduce the frequency of unbalances and the strength of each.

Here are a few of the really good videos I’ve been watching again and again.

First this old video is simply stunning. The quality of the technic of this skier is just outta this world. I challenge anybody to replicate his skiing with the equipment used. Just WOW.

And it’s amazing to see how much still applies today.

Then I have these videos of my mentor Denis Vezina, showing different exercises and technique. In my mind, he is the best technician I have ever seen. Please send me your thoughts about this, or if you have another telemark skier that does it better, let me see it.


Denis was the technical director for CANSI for many years and has developed a lot of what the Canadian telemark ski instructors are teaching nowadays.

This led me to be curious about other countries. I found two very interesting videos.


And then finally, I’ve watched a lot of alpine ski videos, starting with JF Beaulieu’s vision to develop new motor patterns. I think, I kow, that alpine skiing is so very close to telemark skiing. I’ve been telemark skiing full time with little or no alpine for more than two decades and I can definetely say that I’m a way better alpine skier today than when I was a certified level 2 ski instructor.

With JF’s approach, It led me to see alpine skiing from different eras and how the turn shape evolved.
Here is a generational idol, Scot Schmidt skiing in the 90s. A lot have changed since then, but the extended outside leg is very similar to what all the top skiers are still doing today. I found this VERY suprising and interesting.

Telemark is a mix of three pilars in the CANSI approach:

  • Balance
  • Coordination
  • directional change

I feel that Scot Schmidt skills showed these three elements so much. Of course he is not 100% of the time balanced. Not all is direction changes are prefect. But look what he is skiing, with what equipment and how aggressive he is skiing those lines. On a technical basis, he was so strong.

To conclude, I feel that I’ve always learned by watching others do. This is a very good way for me to try and execute. This si just a small survey of what I’ve been watching lately. Winter is barely here so I have to feed my urge this way.

Next, hopefully, I will be on snow.

Rene

 

 

EP 2 My journey to the level 4 CANSI and Podcast 2.0

Telemark in powder. Got my goggle's fogged like a rookie ! At le Massif

Like mentioned in my previous post, I’m embarking on a journey to become a level 4 telemark instructor course from CANSI, the canadian gouverning body for telemark instructors.

The PODCAST revived

In this episode, I talk about why I want to do this level 4 and my philosophy on teaching telemark in the past 2 decade and how it’s evolved.

In this Journey, I will document every step of the way in this blog, through the podcast and on YouTube as well.

 

Envoy.

Ep1 – CANSI Creates a Level 4 Telemark Instructor Certification

© Photo: Charles Lawton

Aiming High: My Journey to Level 4 Telemark Certification

Why I’m Taking on Level 4

Since I first slipped into telemark bindings, skiing has been more than just a sport for me. It’s shaped my life, my career, and my connection with the mountains. Teaching telemark has been at the heart of it all, and over the years, I’ve introduced hundreds of skiers to the art and flow of the free heel. There’s something special about telemark—its rhythm, the way it feels like dancing down a mountain. That’s the feeling I want to pass on to others.

CANSI is the Canadian Association of Nordic Skiing Instructors. It certifies the cross-country instructors and the telemark instructor in Canada. This year, there will be a fourth level. Up until now, Telemark was the only snow sport in Canada with a fourth level of instructors.

So, why go for Level 4 now, after decades of experience on the slopes? To be honest, it’s about challenging myself to be the best I can be for the skiers I teach. Level 4 will now be the highest telemark certification in Canada, and as one of the first to attempt it, I feel a mix of excitement and responsibility. Achieving this certification isn’t just a personal goal; it’s a chance to bring something new and elevated to telemark instruction here in Canada. And maybe, just maybe, inspire a few others to push their own limits along the way.

For the last 10 years, I’ve trained with Denis Vezina each year.

One of my biggest influences has been Denis Vézina, one of the lead evaluators for Level 4. His technical precision and approach to the sport have made me look at my own skiing in a new way.

First, he has giving me new advice and my skiing has changed significantly. He is a big reason why I want to push forward and improve my ability to teach telemark skiing. He has directly influenced a shift in telemark teaching from exercise based progression to a more feeling progression. This is a major change that has happened in alpine skiing and snowboarding as well. And this is where I think a level IV makes sense.

Getting Ready in My Own Way

The Brain

Approaching a Level 4, I know I needed to dive deeper into technique, analysis, and even some details I thought I’d long mastered. This isn’t just any certification; it requires an in-depth understanding of telemark’s technical aspects and a high level of skill in all conditions. So, I’ve been studying. A lot.

I’ve watched countless videos of telemark skiers. I’ve focused on racing, technical turns, freestyle—anything I can find to study the flow and movements at this level.

And I’ve watched myself a lot.

It’s a humbling process, watching myself on video alongside all these experts. I pick apart every movement, every turn, looking for ways to make it smoother, more controlled, more powerful.

I think this is my superpower. Analyzing movement. I’ve talked about this a lot on this blog. But I need to improve the way I bring my student to a new feeling, a new movement. To give you perspective, I’m still very far from the ability Denis has to analyses telemark skiing. So I’m asking a lot of questions.

The Body

Then there is the skiing. I know that every detail counts, and seeing my own skiing alongside people who’ve mastered the craft has made me aware of nuances I never paid attention to before. Trying It’s been an eye-opener, and I’m thankful for all the learning moments—even the frustrating ones.

I have started to train, stretch and to gain mobility. In the end, we are not eternally young and starting the season ready is one of the keys to success.

 

What This Means for My Teaching

For me, Level 4 isn’t just a title or certificate; it’s a chance to elevate my teaching.

If you have followed this blog and my email newsletter (subscribe here ) you know that the competitive side of things is not my forte. This was one of the reasons I liked telemark in the first place. I don’t want the title. I want the journey.

I want to master the technique and the teaching. I want to undertake a doctorate, to think, to reach that next step. Eventually, my goal is to contribute to the community of telemark instructors just like I have done with this blog. This really is about the journey.

Teaching and technique are evolving. I don’t teach the same way has I used 10 or 20 years ago. I feel that CANSI offers the best way for me to reach that next level.

One of the keys to improve is to surround yourself with motivated and talented people. The more I understand, the better I can explain every subtle movement, every technique that makes telemark skiing what it is. I want to help skiers of all levels find that sense of flow and control, and to feel the same excitement I do when I drop into a turn.

What’s Next: The Journey Begins

Telemark skiing has given me so much over the years. It’s taken me to beautiful places, introduced me to inspiring people, and taught me more about focus and resilience than I could have imagined. Pursuing Level 4 feels like a way to continue on this journey. There’s always room to grow, no matter how many years you’ve been at it.

Throughout the season, I will be adding content this blog, I will revive the Absolute Telemark Tips Podcast (in a new format). Sharing my thoughts through different social media like Facebook and YouTube.

In the next post, I’ll share another version of this story through a podcast episode, explaining the unique process I went through to be allowed to try the level 4 without actually having the Level 3. This is rare, and it’s only possible because of my years of teaching and skiing experience. I’ll walk through what that meant for my journey and why it was such a significant step forward as I move closer to Level 4.

Thank you for following along on this journey! I’m excited to share the highs, the challenges, and everything in between. Whether you’re a fellow telemark instructor, a recreational skier, or just curious, I hope my experience can offer some insights into what it means to push the limits of telemark skiing.

Stay tuned!_CFL4370 2

My Quest for the Best All Mountain Telemark Ski

A few years ago, I was in my mid thirties and was ripping the mountain.

I remember that I could ski quick turns in tight trees, jump off (small) cliffs, rip throught moguls…

THIS IS WHAT TELELAMRK IS ALL ABOUT.

But in the last 4-5 years, I’ve considerably slowed down. I don’t get the same feeling, the same ripping feeling.

I’ve done a series about the telemark ski evolution and it made me realized that telemark is a feeling and what ever the era of equipement, it remains FUN

But this latest generation of ALL MOUNTAIN SKIS just doesn’t seem to work for me.

Or did I just get older?

Are alpine skiers just getting better and I can’t keep up anymore?

Is it me or the equipment?

This descent in my confidence to ski all terrain, rip and turn heads started when I tried the Black Diamond Helio 95mm in 2018. I choose a smaller size at 173cm instead of the 178cm I’m usually going for.

I have a friend who had the Helio 105 in a shorter lenght and he liked it a lot, praising the small size to manoeuvre in tight trees.

Well the Helio 95mm in a short size didn’t work. At all.

—

For general information on ski selectrion I have wrote a blog on the subject here.

This blog will only be covering problems for resort oriented all around, all mountain ski in this blog.

Fat skis used for powder do not suffer from those issues.

These are my evolving thoughts as of March 2022.

 

This is the story of my quest to find the best All Mountain Telemark ski.

Note: I have a prodeal with Black Diamond Equipment like most industry professional. I can have prodeals with most ski manufacturers but I’ve been skiing BD for 14 years because they serve me well. I still pay for most of my skis.

This is my story, my skis, the thoughts shared here are mine and reflects my experience:

Skier: Rene-Martin
Year telemark skiing: 26 
Weight: 200 pounds
Height: 6.1 ft
Days on snow: 100 days a year (around 60 resort skiing, 40 backcountry)

In the resort I ski Le MASSIF:
800m vertical drop Eastern Canada snow of average 6m of snowfall
I would say this is about  30% on hardpack groomed runs
40% of somewhat chopped snow/moguls/tree skiing
15% powder. Always in tree skiing where manoeuvrability is key
15% pur ice that gets your knees to hurt

My Experience with ski brands and testing.

First, I’ve been telemark skiing for a 25+ years.

I’ve tried hundreds of skis over the years.

Some years, around 2004-2006,when telemark was at it’s peak of popularity, I would even go at test events to review telemark skis for specialized magasine.

Nowadays, telemark demos are hard to find.

But I work as a ski patroller at Le Massif where about 20 of us are on telemark.

So even in recent years, I’ve tried a lot of different setup.

Atomic, Volk, Rossignol, Nordica, Blizzard, Salomon, Moment, Dynastar, Armada, Xalibu at almost all Black Diamond skis in the last 14 years…

Even with all this testing, I don’t consider myself a great tester. It takes me some time to identify what works in a ski or a binding.

With years, I’ve become better and better at identifying what works and what doesn’t.

THE QUEST

All Alpine skiers are going faster today, it’s easier than ever to ski powder, to carve. We can see that alpine skiers have really gained from modern ski shapes.
I want a great all mountain ski that performs well in bumps, trees, and somewhat carve on hardpack. Powder is a bonus.

I’ve been looking for a ski that works for telemark in the 85-95mm range. That’s the width of the ski under foot.

Most skis under 90mm are just too stiff and mainly aimed at carving. The industry calls them all mountain skis or front side skis, but really it’s meant to ski 75% on groomers and occasional powder, chopped powder. No moguls, no eastern tree skiing where there’s always bumps, powder or chopper powder

Most 90 to 95mm skis are oriented for light touring. Those skis like the BD Helio 95mm not only have gone stiffer and stiffer but this combined with the lightess makes the skis very unstable for the variaty of snow a resort have. It’s just not damp enought.

There are skis that works but in general, for me at least, I have not found a perfect all mountain telemark skis for a LONG time.

And it made me think, what is the greatest all around telemark ski I’ve ever tried?

Tua Excalibur?
K2 World Piste?
Rossignol Big Bang?
These skis where great but are from another era. Boots where smaller and softer, binding where neutral or barely active.
No one can argue that todays telemark equipment has brought performance to another level.
NTN for sure but also AXL binding have changed the game
Those skis mentioned above worked really good. But the mid 90’s early 2000 skis are not the best skis I’ve own.
I remeber that before active binding, skis wider than 90mm were hard to manage.
So what is my favorite all mountain telemark ski in a recent era?
It’s got to be between the BD Aspect 2010-2011 and the BD Warrant 2012-2013.
I really loved these skis and still regret selling them. (I’ll buy them back Jeff)
Black Diamond Aspect 2011 - @skipass.comWarrant
These skis have nothing special really. The shapes are pretty classic. No crazy numbers. No rocker, no tapered tip…
But nobody is making a ski that looks like that!

In 2021-2022, I have:

  • a slalom ski at 65mm (165cm long) mounted on NTN freeride
  • a GS ski at 63mm, 170cm on freeride
  • a BD Impulse 98mm, 180cm on a Meidjo 3 with alpine heelset
  • A BD Helio at 115mm, 186cm on a meidjo 3 with alpine heelset (I use it only to guide in BC)
The race skis, slalom and GS are specialty skis and only use them on groomers. (I can get by on moguls with the slalom but it’s not the best)
The 115mm Helio is backcountry use exclusively. And whatever the conditions, I pretty much always go with this one. This ski is AWESOME and I’ve been skiing it since 2017. The trend is 105mm skis which I really don’t like. They’re too wide to be nimble and too narrow to float.
Obviously the Helio 115 are awesome for backcountry skiing but they are just too big for resort skiing.
These 3 skis are specialized skis and are no brainer. They do what they are supposed to do, carve or ski powder. But I can’t really patrol the whole mountain on them
telemark ski Quiver 2022
So this year, for the all mountain ski, I tried the Impulse 98.
I wanted to go back to a damp ski, with some weight. (4kg)
It’s got a nice radius at 18m in the 180cm. So it should be okay on groomers.
98mm is a bit wider than I’d like but It’s not so much wider than the Warrant that I liked so much back in the days.
But still again, this year, I am not ripping like I use to. The Impulse delivers in a lot of snow condition, but it’s slow to turn moguls and a bit too wide to really carve on groomers without hurting my knees.
Maybe it’s too heavy?
And I’m still not ripping like I use too.
And this tought still comes back.
Is it me getting older?
Can I still ski 800 vertical meters, charging in moguls?
Because of this lack of feeling in the bumps, I’ve spent a great amount of time practicing my carving in the last two seasons.
I really like carving. It’s a great challenge.
The carving skis I have are so fun and it makes the technique so much easier than any all mountain ski can.
Carving skis are meant to carve.
But this is not what I like the most about telemark.
And all the days that I’m patrolling, I need to be able to ski all conditions and all terrain. 50% of the runs are moguls or tree skiing.
Let me tell you that a carving ski is the worst in anything but hard pack groomed runs
This season, especially, I was quite desperate to find a great all around telemark ski.

Here are the PROBLEMS with modern MID FAT skis

1. Shallow Rise Tip

Problem: the spatulla doesn’t rise enough. Note: Fat skis used for powder do not suffer from this issue.

In 2018, I thought that the small size combined with the tip rocker of the Helio 95 was the problem.

The tip rocker problem was easily identified. The tip only lifted a few cm of the ground and the telemark squat would frequently make the tip dive in a bump.

RMT00615

I could make it work but I needed to keep my telemark lead change VERY small. Like less than a boot long. And I needed to be very active to get the skis to manoeuvre around moguls. It was a nightmare.

So I sold the ski to a smaller skier and thought that was that. Well over the years, I’ve realized that there is actually 4 shape changes that have impered our ability to telemark on modern all-mountain shape.

My Quest was only starting.

 

2. Stiffer Tip

Problem: stiff tip combined with a shallow rised tip makes the tip catch in bumps. Note: Fat skis used for powder do not suffer from this issue.

The next year, I went for a narrower ski, the Black Diamond Route 88. I picked them the right lenght at 178cm.

I moved away from carbon as I realized that it was too light for resort skiing and also that it was just too stiff.

This solved the tip diving problem, ouf!

But even if the ski was ok in moguls, ok on groomers, ok in powder, I still wasn’t ripping like before. For the story, the last ski that BD made that worked for my was the Aspect that was produce in 2014-15. After that the Link, the Helio, the Route all had the same problem.

Stiffer and stiffer tip mixed with a shallow rise tip really kills the energy tranfered to the back ski in a telemark turn.

 

 

Telemark carving

See how low the tip is barely off the ground.

 

You have to think of the back ski as a second point of balance. When turning, we are puitting our skis on edge. On the front ski, our weight is distributed on the whole edge of the ski. It’s centered.

On the back ski, using any modern active binding, our energy is more transfered half way between the center and the tip. We can even see my back ski lifted of the snow in this image.

Screen Shot 2022-03-30 at 7.54.51 AM

Now if the spatula doesn’t rise a lot or if it’s too stiff, it will catch a lot more into things.

But there is more!

3. Rockered Tip

Problem: the ski has no energy to give back to the skier. Note: Fat skis used for powder do not suffer from this issue.

Again, telemark skiing, we transfer  half way between the center and the tip of the back ski by the boot-binding combo. If it’s too rockered, the energy is lost in the ski shape. Tradional shaped skis have camber to give energy to the ski. When pushed, it wants to come back into it’s original shape. With a tapered tip, we are pushing the ski into it’s designed shape, just making it rounder, and the ski is not going to give any energy back.

rocker ski image

4. Tapered Tip

Problem, the shape of the tip changes the radius of the turn on the back ski. Note: Fat skis used for powder do not suffer from those issues.

The final factor is the tapered tip. This is when the max wigth of the ski is not at the top of the spatula. On hard pack snow, this changes the way the arch of the edge conduct the ski. It’s like if your back ski had a big belly.

Basically, they move the widest part of the ski toward the center. This has many advantages. It reduces mass at the tip, thus reducing swing weight, it creates a shorter turn radius without a super large tip that becomes bulky and clumky. But for our back ski while telemarking, it reduces grip and edge control. A bit of tapered tip is not a problem, but laterly, ski company have increased it on some models to become a problem.

ski tip tapered

 

And these 4 problems  are not exclusive to Black Diamond. In the last 5 years, almost all brands are going in this direction

There is worst.

This is not working for telemark inbound as an all around ski. If you are like me and ski moguls, tress, powder, groomers, ice, this shallow tip rise and stiff tip is just deadly, rocker and tapered tip definetly doesn’t help. I found that this is NOT a problem for fat skis aimed at powder.

But why are the manufacturers going for those kind of shapes then?

You have to understand it works of the alpine turn. It works really good.

It took me a while to understand that.

THE SKI I WAS WANTING FOR

Watch the video above. This is me trying the Bishop Gonzo.
I had try this ski in it’s first version. I haven’t ask, but I think this is version 2 or 3.
I remembered it being a good ski. But at the time, I was focus on the binding and it was a really great snow year. So I ended up skiing the 100mm Chedi a lot.
With the bishop, I can ski the bumps like I want to. I can charge.
I can turn heads again.
I know this is kinda cheezy, but this is such a great feeling.
And I love the feeling of charging in moguls.
And it can turn quickly in a tree run.
And it’s ok the carve.
Oh and it went way better than I thought in powder. I’d say it was better in powder than on the groomer.
The tip still exited on top of the snow at every turn. This is a definite suprise has I don’t remember this from version 1.
This is the best telemark all mountain ski I’ve tried in a few years for sure.
Hope this helps
Rene-Martin
If I’ve helped you in any way, consider helping me by becoming a patreon here

 

My Passion for Carving on my telemark

Telemark carving

One of the most difficult techniques to master is

Carving on Telemark Skis.

Compared to moguls or steep skiing, I feel that carving is a more complex technique to master.

And in the last 4-5 seasons, I really focus on improving my carving.

—

I’ve been carving for 20 years but the ability to carve on any surface and slope is definitely still a challenge. I would say that my first passion as always been powder tree skiing. Then, I spent a lot of time in moguls,it is only in later years that carving has become a real passion.

I’m lucky enough to have probably the best technician in Canada, Denis Vezina, teaching at my home resort. He represents Canada at Interski. His telemark technique is flawless, and he has the ability to dissect my skiing better than anybody. His knowledge has allowed me to improve significantly my technique.

Here are the things I think I’ve changed or improved over the last five years. Note that these are tips are what made a difference for me. It’s areas I focussed and that has given me results.

If you want more general tips on how to carve, check this post here.

Telemark Carving Skis

OK first I got real carving skis. One GS and one Slalom ski that I mounted on NTN Freerides. This is a game changer for sure, especially my  Salomon slalom with 13 m of radius.

Here are my quiver for 2022.

From left to right:

Black Diamond Helio 115 (2020-21) with Meidjo 3 and alpine heelset. Powder skis used almost exclusively in the backcountry

Black Diamond Impulse 98 (2021-22) with Meidjo 3 and Alpine heelset. All Mountain skis that I mainly use for resort skiing, ski patrolling, slack country.

Dynastar Speed Course Comp 64 GS skis (2007) with Rotofella NTN Freeride (with switch plate)

Salomon X-RACE 65 (2013-2014) with Rotofella NTN Freeride (with switch plate). This is the ski I use the most to focus on my carving.

telemark ski 2022

 

 

Those two skis although older are SO much better on groomed snow than any skis I’ve ever tried. Really, it’s cheating compared to a 90mm modern ski.

Both hold an edge like crazy and speed is not a problem.

I use the Salomon the most. I love the short radius feeling. But I will spend a lot of time of the Dynastar GS ski in this season to try to master this beast of speed. It’s crazy how you need some serious courage to really push a GS ski.

I have them mounted on the NTN Freedom which are Okay but I’d love a more progressive binding such as the Bishop BMF 3 or even a Meidjo 3 with its incredible lateral stiffness.

TELEMARK CARVING TIPS

Outside Ski

Telemark skiing in all conditions, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to stay balanced in variable conditions such as moguls, powder and I was a big proponent of having your body weight distributed evenly 50% – 50%. I still think that this ability is great in a lot of situations but for carving I’ve definitely moved away from that to focus on 70% on the front ski which in terms of technique is described as being the outside ski to the centre of the turn.

There are many reasons why this is helping, but the main reason is definitely edge pressure. The other one is the way you can increase your angulation.

70% is just a mental reference, and I have never measured the actual percentages. And there is a limit to how much pressure you can put on your outside ski to keep your telemark stance efficient and balanced. Finally, I would say that the weight distribution varies during the turn and depending on turn shapes, so I could say a lot more on the subject.

Rotating the femur

This was a new concept for me

I am very good to angulate from the knees and I love to use my back knee to create a good edge angle. But this tip uses the biggest articulation in the body and for this reason is super strong to oppose the forces of carving.

At the start, when I feel that I’m strongly edging, I will focus on rotation my femur on my outside leg (front leg). This will help a lot to create opposing force to the turn and to start turning. I’m still exploring this feeling so more to come in the future.

This can only work if you have a good weight distribution, meaning that you need 70% on your outside (front ski). So here is another reason why overloading the outside ski is great.

Early Edging

Focus on horizontal extension at the start of the turn to get the new lead change edging as fast as possible.

I did understand the advantages of horizontal extension, but I now understand the advantages of an earlier extension to gain earlier edging.

I focus on the moment of release at the end of a turn. This needs to be a combination of letting the skis go under you into the new turn a bit passively and to put pressure immediately on the new outside ski (this will become your front leg). This weight shift is the key to get the early edging and this allows the skis to bend into the carving arch sooner, creating a nice constant turn.

So really the goal is to preload the ski to arch sooner so that when the pressure builds up in the turn, the ski is already in the right shape to push against the snow. I would say that this is the key to start carving in steeper terrain and at higher speeds.

FYI, this early edging is right before the femur rotation I talked about above.

Breathing

Focus on breathing out at the end of a turn.

This tip has helped me tremendously and it was the first tip that Denis gave me that I was like: Okay, this guy really knows his stuff.

Telemark is a lot about coordination. To breathe out at the end of the turn as many advantages. First and foremost, it helps synchronize the most important part of the turn, the lead change. I feel that by exhaling at the end of the turn, it gives me a timing and rhythm to consistently start the sequence of the turn.

Second aspect might be psychological, but it works for me. Actually, it works really well. I feel that by breathing out, I have more room to angulate at the end of the turn. Try it, it’s fascinating. It’s like if my body is freer and it gives me a last little movement to really help close the turn.

Closing the turn means that you slow yourself by completing the circle of the turn a bit more like if you were going more uphill. (This is just a figure of speech as most often we don’t literally go uphill.)

I like to play with the breathing out speed, exhaling slow on long radius turns and exhaling super fast in short radius turn.

Different angulations

Breathing leads me to talk about different types of angulations.

Explain briefly, angulation puts your mass over your edges by moving your upper body in a C-shape. You can angulate from the knees, from the hips and the spine.

For this article, I want to focus on hips vs spine. I never understood that there was a difference between the spine and the hips moving to counterbalance the forces of the turn.

This year Denis was focusing a lot on my hips moving at the start of the turn. He then told another participant in our clinic to stop using the notion of squashing an orange into your rib cage. This is what I will call spine angulation.

This is a tip given by Mike And Allen famous Telemark Tips book.

I was surprised by Denis comment and we didn’t get the chance to talk about why he gave that telemark skier that tip.

But it struck me that this was actually two separate movements.

So I started to experiment. At slow speeds, moving only the hips is definitely not working as it’s just too big of a body part. On the opposite moving only the rib cage into the hip bone (Spine angulation), squashing an orange is not strong enough at higher speed and is a more complicated movement for steeps than simply moving the hips.

So here is where I stand and that I’m experimenting with. I now start the turn focusing on moving my hips, like if I was sitting inside the turn. This movement focusses on keeping my upper body straight and to angulate more as the turn progress. This is what I call hip angulation. It typically happens between the start of the turn and a bit pass the fall line at the middle of the turn.

At one point I will be limited on how much I can angulate from the hips, and depending if the turn needs more angulation, I will then start to arch my spine, moving my chin over my outside ski. This will get my spine to arch more and more and to cork my upper body over my edges. This is where the tip to breathe out actually helps create even more of this spine angulation.

Sharp Edges vs Race Sharp Edges

I’ve always known that sharp edges are important but this next tip is the real cheat code.

Getting new skis every year, I know that sharp edges are a game changer. Over the years, I’ve gone from sharpening my own skis carefully, to sharpening then very crudely, to not sharpening them at all.

You have to understand that as a ski patroller the chances of hitting a rock during a day are very high. So the dedication to keep edges sharp are mostly a waste of time.

Having dedicated carve skis have changed that.

The Cheat code I’m going to share now is definitely not for everyone.

Read this carefully, you need to be very confident and skilled to do this safely. But Oh my God, what a change.

I started to have my skis sharpen at an aggressive angle like ski racers.

ski edge angle

Ski manufacturers typically have angles that will enable the average skier to perform on any terrain. Those angles are the base angle of 1 degree and the side wall angle of -1 degree. Technicians usually refer to this side wall angle saying 89 degrees.

I went from a side wall of 89 deg to an angle of 88. This per se will not make major improvements.

I went from a base angle of 1 deg to an angle of 0.5 deg.

This combination is the cheat code. Edging as become SO easy. The difference is CRAZY. Really.

But it comes at a price. Your ability the slip in and out of your carve is drastically reduced, meaning that your skis will want to edge and to stay on edge. To reduce that, you can unsharpen the edge at the tip and tail, but in my mind, it defies the reason why you got them to sharpened this way.

Racers will even go to even crazier angles such as 87 and 0 degrees, which I am not ready to try. This is how they succeed in staying on their feet when completely off balance on crazy steep icy slopes. Because you can clearly see the off balance is supposed to make them fall.

AAAAAH Now I know how they do it.

Here is a progression I would suggest trying as you improve your skiing.

All levels of telemark skiers who want to carve: Keep your edges super sharp, sharpening them every couple of days on the slope. If you can, use a diamond stone after every day on the mountain.

STEP 1: You want to start to learn to carve on green runs, keeping both skis arching and leaving two tracks behind you – » keep your edges at 89 and 1 deg which is the manufacturers recommended angles, unsharpen the tip and tail about 10 cm.

STEP 2: You want to start carving on blue runs, keeping your skis arching and leaving track behind you in good grooming condition. – » Keep your edges at 89 and 1 deg but do not unsharpen the tip and tail.

STEP 3: You want to start carving on green  and blue runs in hard-packed conditions (not icy yet) -» increase your edge angle to 88 and 1 deg (or 88 and 0.7 deg if your ski tech can do that) do not unsharpen the tip and tail.

STEP 4: You want to start carving aggressively on blue and maybe black runs -» increase the edge angle to 88 and 0.5 deg. do not unsharpen the tip and tail.

STEP 5: you want to race and carve aggressively no matter what – » well I’m not there yet and I would use caution here advising you on something I’m not familiar with. Maybe it can come back in the future and keep you updated.

I would suggest you take these steps very slowly, maybe trying one setting for at least one season.

Also, changing edge angle will remove a lot of metal on your ski edges, using them prematurely, so make sure you don’t go back and forth too many times.

Did you like this kind of format of blog?

I understand that this is not going to help as many telemark skiers than other lessons I’ve given. I give you my perspective, what I’m working on and what I have improved lately.

Leave a comment if you have any question or to share your perspective on carving on telemark.

 

Modern Telemark Ski Selection and Problems

I have tried and tested dozens of skis with the years.

I’ve been sponsored by Black Diamond the past 13 years, but I’ve still tried a lot of other brands.

In this article I want to talk about what you should look for/ avoid in your quest for the right telemark ski, whatever the brand.

In the last 5 years, more and more skis have early rise tips like shown. These tips can be great on big powder skis but don’t translate well to piste, all around skis.

RMT00615

I think the design is popular on alpine setup because it reduces ski vibration that they call chatter.

For us telemark skiers, the back ski gets a lot of pressure transferred to the tip when we flex in a telemark turn. From this, if the tip curvature is not big enough, like we see on all-around skis (95mm and less), I have found a lot of tip dive.

Telemark modern ski guide

Here are the ski categories I like and the use I make of it.

All Around skis (80mm to 95mm) For inbound, usually ski patrolling

I will look for:

  • 90mm underfoot
  • 15m-16m radius
  • reduced rocker
  • traditional tip shape
  • underfoot camber
  • Don’t take them short even if you want to play in the trees

Weight is often not important. I will mount these skis with a full frame binding like the BMF from Bishop or the Outlaw X from 22Designs.

I use these skis to rail turns on groomers, ski trees, bumps, all inbounds, with some quick outbound laps.

It’s been a couple of years I have skied a perfect ski in this category.

In the last two years, I’ve tried the Salomon QST 90, the Nordica EnRgy 90, the Nordica Enforcer, Atomic Backland 95, Black Diamond Helio 95, Black Diamond Route 88, Bishop Gonzo.

My favourites were the Salomon QST and the Bishop Gonzo.

My all-time favourites  were the Black Diamond Warrant (2013) and the Black Diamond Aspect (2012). See the Philosophy section to learn why

Backcountry Telemark, Touring skis (100mm to 120mm)

I will look for:

  • 110-115mm underfoot
  • lots of rocker (350mm+) soft shovel. I don’t mind the early rise tips for big powder skis.
  • some camber underfoot, avoid full rockered ski (banana shaped ski are not the best for telemark)
  • tail: not a lot of rocker  and stiffer . If you lose balance and end up in the back seat, it will be harder to bring back.
  • radius is absolutely not important but it is usually around 18m- 22m
  • Weight is definitely important and I will aim for around 3 kg per pair.
  • Don’t hesitate to go longer than you are used to. 5 to 10cm longer is my general reference. The big rocker will still make the skis quick. In the end, it’s all about the float you need in the deep days.

My favourite all-time in this category are the new BD Helio 115. The old version called the 116 was already my favourites but the new 2020 version is just a notch better in variable snow conditions, the Achilles heel of big light skis.

Philosophy of modern skis, and the telemark turn

These are just the guide lines I found in the last years.

On piste All-Mountain experience.

We see more and more telemark skiers on piste with wide skis. I’m one of them.

Going back to old set up last year, I realized that we are going too wide.

Reducing the ski width for inbound skiing has enabled me to ski with ease, in moguls, carving, even in powder. Yes, I went slower in some conditions but in general, it was the opposite, I could go a lot faster, especially on hard pack and in moguls.

I fell in love with a pair of Salomon Slalom ski, with 67mm underfoot and 13m radius for carving. I had the best feeling in years on piste with these. Of course they didn’t allow for variable terrain shred, so this is not the solution for an all-around ski. Still, I found feelings I had forgotten, carving each turn like crazy.

I will be looking for a true all mountain, good for the condition we get in the East. Carving, moguls, trees. The Icelantic Sabre 89 would be a ski I’d like to try.

Touring Experience

I tried 2 versions of BD Helio 105. These skis are great. They are good in all conditions, jack of all trade, quiver ski for snowy condition. But I really like the wider skis. 115 is so much more fun.

I will still try some 105 skis in the next few years because I can, but if I had one backcountry ski to get, I would go 110-115mm underfoot, light skis.

Some exceptions.

Ski shapes and intended use vary so much. There is one for everyone.

I ski manly East of North America with one occasional trip out West for the big mountains.

If I was out West year round, I would have a 100-105mm ski for inbound and the same 110-115mm for off piste

Also, I have a Bishop Chedi I really like. this ski doesn’t fit in any of the categories I explained above.

  • It’s not light,
  • It’s not wide
  • It’s a 100mm ski, full camber,
  • with a long radius.

In short, it’s a boring ski.

But it just works. A bit like the BD Warrant I mentioned above. Those kinds of skis seem to work really well for telemark. (Or at least, my style of telemark)

Last word about lenght.

Skis lateral stiffness has increased in the last few years and people are tempted to try shorter, wider skis. For me, this has never produced positive results.

For reference here are my skis lengths. I’m 6’01” / 200 lbs or 185cm / 90 kg. The ski lenght will vary depending on the ski category

slalom racing carving skis: 163cm

GS racing carving skis: 170cm

All mountain skis: 178 to 180cm

Powder, touring skis: 184 to 188 cm

2021, Year of Backcountry Telemark

Yep,

Oh, by the way, this gear selection is often what you guys ask advice about.

This year, I will talk more about my backcountry telemark set-up since it’s this one that I will change this season. Because of the pandemic, this is probably going to be the biggest season ever for earning your turns, so it might apply to you as well.

I can tell you right away that after a very satisfying set up last year, I will go back to what has worked for me in the last few years.

In this post, I share my touring set up.

Disclaimer: I don’t pay for much of the stuff I receive but I can choose pretty much all I want. And I can surely say whatever I want about the gear I use.

Backcountry is the essence of telemark. Skin up, ski down, I first tried in 1996-97 in the Chic-Chocs.

Equipment has evolved and the 2020s should bring a very exciting era. Today’s telemark gear needs to be compared to alpine touring. This industry has made giant leaps in the last 5–7 years and the question is now can a telemark skier keep up with an alpine tourer. This is one of the reasons a lot of people have switched from telemark to alpine setups.

This has been my quest for the last 10 years, trying to keep up with my alpine friends in the Backcountry. Today’s equipment is almost on par, thanks to the binding manufacturers.

My setup for this season is the Helio 115 (now OK to mount with a telemark binding) with the Meidjo. I will keep my Crispi Evo WC boot for a 3rd year.

I received this setup late January 2020, so I’ve actually skied them quite a bit.

RMT00591

Telemark GEAR

Here is what I use and also some alternate choice I think are good options.

Binding

Because of the NTN, you have to choose to go 75mm or NTN before anything else when you build up your touring kit.

If you go 75mm, I think the Voile Switchback is your only real option. This binding is light, provide a free pivot and the feeling of the downhill will satisfy all the 75mm lovers out there.

If you go NTN, you definitely have to go with a TTS like binding or as Pierre Mouyade, inventor of the Meidjo, calls this binding family: TTN. Telemark Tech Norm

Those bindings are the go-to options for touring. I suggest you choose from the original TTS, the Lynx or the Meidjo.

Pins hold the front of the boot, giving the best ROM (Range Of Movement) and resistance-free stride. This alone makes telemark able to keep up with the alpine tourers.

If you go with a TTS like binding, you will have the freedom and Range Of Movement (ROM) to hike uphill like any alpine tech binding.

All we are missing is the ROM of modern alpine touring boots. I’ve heard that Scarpa is working on a new NTN boot that should provide this but it’s not yet ready.

Still the combo of boots, binding and ski makes for a very decent kit to enjoy the backcountry. And I will say that it’s never been better.

I chose the Meidjo. I will change from the 2.1 to the 3.0 when I receive them. Notice that I have the Alpine Heel Set.

Two years ago I skied a 50-degree chute north of Whistler-Blackcomb. Conditions were perfect, 10 cm of fresh snow, avalanche hazard was low, stability tests were negative. The snow was somewhat dense, coastal like. I don’t get the chance to ski couloirs like that in the winter very often. So I charged the first 10–15 turns, tele-skiing in the wider funnel-like entrance. The couloir then narrowed and the center had slufted down. The 10 cm turned into trashed, irregular, firm snow in the center and soft, dense on the sides. It was really hard to keep my balance between the transitions from the snow sides to the center hard pack irregular snow. Skiing down suddenly became a real life or death experience. I tried a few turns, alpine skiing without locking my heel. It was even harder as I entered the sides, I was losing balance forward. I tried a few turns telemark skiing and the center of the couloir was a real challenge to hold the edge in this super steep couloir. Long story short, I stopped on the side, made myself a nice platform and locked my heels in the Alpine Heelset. I skied the rest of the couloir not in an elegant way but felt a lot safer than the few turns I had just made.

On the pros, the Meidjo is the most complete binding for me.

  • The skiing is just great. Solid laterally, it transfers power like crazy.
  • Its tension is highly adjustable to get the telemark feeling you want. It won’t beat the super stiff Freeride or other full frame binding like the Outlaw X or the BMF but it can be stiff enough to race with.
  • There is a release system!!! And the release system is reliable. It’s not 100% nor are any alpine bindings.
  • The step-in is quite easy (improved on the 3.0 – can’t wait to try)
  • The combo with the alpine heelset is still releasable. And it keeps the same release values.
  • It’s very easy to go from telemark to ski and back. This means that I can telemark most of the time but if I feel that I need it, I can alpine easily.

The Cons:

  • The walk mode is not the most user-friendly.
  • Bindings are prone to icing in the second heel cup, it’s easy to get rid of it but it builds up in spring conditions
  • Not the easiest binding to install
  • The brakes are not for me, just too easy to break (new version this year so this could change.

 

RMT00611

Boots

This is the missing link. While today’s boot are durable and perform very well on the down, we don’t have the same modern walk mode as alpine tourers. Their boots are significantly better for climbing. You have two routes from here in my mind:

Stay in 75mm boots and choose, light, flexible boots that will provide ease of walking. You will be missing the power to drive the big modern fat skis

Go NTN and use stiffer, higher boots. Here, you will carry more weight, have less ROM. Your stride will suffer but the way down is going to be as good as any modern alpine tourers.

Seventy-five millimeters boots are getting harder to find but Scarpa T2, Crispi XP are very good options.

My Choice: Crispi Evo WC for its stiffness, the fact that it has the tech toe inserts and the heel tech inserts.

The Pros:

  • wrap around liners for stiffness
  • has the tech toe inserts and the heel tech inserts.
  • Very durable [look at the sole after two full seasons.
  • just a solid driver

On the cons:

  • heavy boots compared to alpine touring equivalent (like all telemark boots in this category)
  • old walk mode mechanism compared to alpine touring equivalent (like all telemark boots in this category)
  • clips are not the easiest to undo. This is not a deal breaker, just something to get used to.
  • The liner is not the warmest.

RMT00601RMT00599RMT00620

Skis

The Helio 115 are my go to this season

Last year I was on the Black Diamond Helio 105 with the Lynx binding.

I really liked the combo and it’s one of the lightest setups I ever had.

For me the 105 is a very polyvalent ski that I brought guiding and ski patrolling, inbounds and backcountry. Of course you need snow for this ski to be fun but I liked how skiable it was in other conditions. If you want one ski, this could be it.

This year, I will go back with a wider ski. The Helio 115. Good news the new Helio revamped line-up is now telemark recommended. [BD actually removed the “not recommended for telemark” tag.] This ski is just a great size for powder. I like to guide with it, it floats, it’s playful, it’s just an incredible ski that gives me the most fun.

105 was a bit too skinny at times, and I just didn’t have the same fun. It worked great, but not as fun. It’s the old saying, “Jack of all trades, master of none.”

Because I have a few options to choose from, I want the big boy in the line-up for 2020-21.

The Lynx binding by 22Design is also a great choice that I strongly recommend. Good value, simple design, light, efficient. Step in was not the best for me but I learned that 22Designs have changed a toe piece since my version (I think I had a pre-production version). You can look at my full review on YouTube if you wish.

I will still ski a lot more set-ups like the Bishop’s 100 mm Chedi and their super good binding, the BMF, a few racing skis with the Freeride, a few older 75mm setups.

RMT00613

 

 

RMT00615

 

 

Skins

I have used exclusively Black Diamond skins (and Ascension skins prior to that).

In 20+ years, I’ve had maybe 15 to 20 different pairs.

My go-to are the GlideLite Mix.

They’re just a good combo of lightness, placability and grip. These are the important factor for me. Oh and one super important quality is to be able to unglue the skins when they are packed glue on glue.

Last year, because of limited availability when I got my new Black Diamond Helio 115 at the end of January, I had to go for something new.

Skins are a simple product when it works well but it’s a real pain when it doesn’t

I bought a set of Pomoca Pro S-Climb skins.

Pros:

So far, I like them. It’s about the same as the Black Diamond GlideLite but with a better glide. Not a great difference, but noticeable.

Cons:

There are two metal wires that comes in the box. The White is not strong enough, they bent on me and then the modified shape affected how well they stayed in place.

They could just fall off the skins. I changed for the other all gunmetal ones and the problem was solved.

RMT00607

I will probably add a set up in December or January. I will probably go with a 22Design binding and a more biffy setup.

Not sure what to get? you can look at my Modern Telemark Ski Selection and Problems post coming up soon

 

Pages:1234567...12»